Longreach QLD

From Charleville, we continued north along the Matilda Way—an iconic stretch named after the legendary bush ballad Waltzing Matilda, penned near Winton. This drive captures the essence of outback Queensland, weaving together rich history, vast landscapes, and unforgettable wildlife encounters.

Our first stop was Tambo, where we set up camp at Stubby Bend Campground. This expansive riverside camp stretches along the Barcoo River and sits within easy walking distance of town. Tambo is perhaps best known for “Ben’s Chicken Racing,” held nightly at the Royal Carrangarra Hotel—and when in Tambo, it’s an absolute must.

We were picked up by the hotel’s courtesy bus, which services local campgrounds, and soon found ourselves perched ringside with a drink in hand. Ben, the mastermind behind the event, is as entertaining as they come. Chickens are auctioned off—some fetching over $200—with all proceeds going to charity. It’s a lively, laughter-filled night that draws visitors from far and wide and brings a real buzz to the town.

The following morning, we visited Tambo Teddies. This uniquely Australian initiative began in 1992 during a time of drought and crashing wool prices. Faced with economic hardship, the community came together to create a new opportunity—handcrafting teddy bears from wool pelts and stuffing them with wool. Today, these beautifully made bears are cherished in homes all around the world and remain a testament to the resilience and creativity of this small outback town.

From Tambo, we continued on to Blackall for an overnight stay at the free RV park, also set along the Barcoo River. It proved to be the perfect base to explore the town. We visited the historic bore site—Blackall was the first town in outback Queensland to successfully drill an artesian bore in 1885, unlocking a vital and enduring water source for the region.

We also stopped by the famous Black Stump, a historic surveying marker that inspired the well-known Australian phrase “beyond the Black Stump,” used to describe remote and far-flung places deep in the outback.

As we left Blackall, the landscape began to shift. Bottle trees dotted the horizon, and the country opened into sweeping Mitchell grass plains. Recent rains had transformed the land into a lush, vibrant green—a striking contrast to the harshness often associated with the outback.

On the recommendation of locals, our next stop was Lara Wetlands—a 15,000-acre station stay built around a stunning wetland fed by a century-old artesian bore. Once part of the larger Barcaldine Downs, the property is now owned and managed by a hardworking single mum dedicated to preserving this unique environment.

The wetlands are home to over 125 bird species, making it a haven for wildlife lovers. Facilities are rustic but thoughtfully designed, including donkey-fired water heaters that provide hot showers morning and night. Firewood is conveniently supplied in small trolleys, making it easy to transport back to camp.

With ample space available, we chose a waterfront spot—perfect for birdwatching and soaking in spectacular sunrises and sunsets. We spent time in the artesian pool, particularly enjoying the peaceful stillness of sunrise. Bush walks across the property revealed native flora, fauna, and grazing cattle. What was meant to be a short stay quickly turned into four nights—we simply couldn’t bring ourselves to leave.

Eventually, we peeled ourselves away and headed towards Longreach. Just before Barcaldine, we stumbled upon a cattle muster—an unforgettable glimpse into authentic outback life. Stockmen and women on horseback worked seamlessly alongside cattle dogs, while a helicopter pilot expertly guided the herd from above, putting on an impressive aerial display.

As we neared Longreach, we realised we were close to the geographical centre of Queensland—something we couldn’t pass up. Ticking off these central markers has become a bit of a bucket list for us, having already visited those in Victoria, New South Wales, and Australia itself. So naturally, we adjusted our plans.

This detour led us to Muttaburra, a small town about 125km north of Longreach. Our first stop was the pub—a wise decision, as it quickly provided us with local insights, history, and camping tips (not to mention cold beer and great chips).

We attempted to camp along the Thomson River just out of town, but recent rains had left the area overgrown and unsuitable for our setup. Instead, we opted for the free RV camp in town, which has recently transitioned from a paid site due to a drop in travellers.

Muttaburra’s claim to fame is the discovery of the Muttaburrasaurus Langdoni. In 1963, local grazier Doug Langdon uncovered one of the most complete dinosaur skeletons ever found in Queensland near the Thomson River. Today, visitors can explore this history at the town’s Interpretive Centre, which features a life-sized replica and real fossil remains. Open 24 hours and free to visit, it’s well worth a stop.

The town also offers a sculpture trail and a self-guided historical walk, showcasing its pastoral heritage and significant landmarks.

From Muttaburra, we returned to Longreach and set up camp at the Apex RV Campground. Located just out of town, it offers a large, well-equipped space with toilets and potable water for just $10 per night. Despite reports of declining tourism, we were surprised to see plenty of travellers—many seemingly opting for budget-friendly stays to offset rising fuel costs.

Longreach itself is smaller than we expected, with a population of around 3,700, but it serves as a major hub for central west Queensland. Named after the “long reach” of the Thomson River, the town is rich in history and outback character.

While there are several well-known attractions—including the Stockman’s Hall of Fame—we chose to visit the Qantas Founders Museum. With entry fees adding up and recent weeks already immersed in pastoral history, it felt like the perfect change of pace.

Founded in 1920, Qantas began as a small outback airline servicing remote communities with mail and passenger flights. The museum tells the story of its founders—Paul McGinness, Hudson Fysh, and Fergus McMaster—and traces the airline’s growth into Australia’s largest domestic carrier. We opted for a self-guided tour, which included access to an original hangar. It was both informative and engaging, offering a fascinating look into Australia’s aviation history.

Longreach also gave us the chance to restock supplies and prepare for the next leg of our journey—the Great Central Highway, often referred to as “Australia’s Greatest Shortcut.”

** Tip: For the best viewing experience, click the YouTube link in the bottom left corner of the video to watch in higher clarity.