From Roma, we made our way to Charleville—drawn in by glowing recommendations—and checked into the Evening Star Tourist Park. Located just 10 km west of town on the historic Thurlby Station, this 33,000-acre working cattle and sheep property set the tone for what would become an unforgettable stay.
We pulled into a spacious drive-through site, thoughtfully lined with native gardens that offered both privacy and a real sense of being immersed in the outback. Family-owned and operated, the park has a warm, welcoming feel, and each evening during the season, guests gather around a large mulga-fuelled firepit for entertainment and connection. There’s something special about sitting under the stars, fire crackling, swapping stories with fellow travellers.
One of the park’s unique touches is its thriving vegetable garden, where guests are encouraged to help themselves. The mandarins were some of the best we’ve tasted, and we’re still cooking with the lemons we picked during our stay. Scattered fruit trees and a well-maintained bush walk add to the experience, with trails leading past the original station’s wool shed, outbuildings, and an impressive collection of historic machinery and artefacts.
Charleville itself, the largest town in southwest Queensland, sits around 750 km west of Brisbane. Established in 1865 on the banks of the Warrego River, it began as a pastoral hub before evolving into a key centre for transport, aviation, and wartime defence.
We spent our days exploring the town’s rich history, starting at the Charleville Airfield Museum—often referred to as the “Artery of the Outback.” Here, we traced the region’s aviation story, including its connection to the early days of Qantas. While at the airport precinct, we also learned about the devastating 1990 floods. Visiting the cemetery and the SES Flood Display brought home the scale of the disaster and the resilience of the community. Hearing locals recount their experiences—one woman describing taking refuge on her roof—was both humbling and powerful.
An early morning visit to watch the automated weather balloon launch was brief but fascinating, offering a glimpse into how vital weather data is collected in these remote regions.
The highlight of our time in Charleville, however, was the WWII tag-along tour. Departing from the museum, housed in one of the original hangars, we were taken through the remnants of a vast, once-secret U.S. Army Air Force base. Spanning 25 square kilometres, the base housed around 3,500 personnel and included over 100 purpose-built buildings and three runways.
Established in 1942 and hidden within the mulga scrub, the base was chosen for its remote location, dry climate, and existing aviation infrastructure. At a time when Australia feared invasion from the north, Charleville became a critical, yet highly secretive, inland stronghold. Sworn to secrecy, even many stationed there had no idea what they were protecting—the highly classified Norden bombsight, a device considered second only to the atomic bomb in its importance.
By 1946, with the Pacific conflict over, the base was decommissioned and largely dismantled, leaving behind only traces of its remarkable past.
After the tour, we spent time exploring the interactive museum, even trying our hand at a B-17 bomber simulation. It’s an engaging and educational experience that really brings wartime history to life.
Our final night was the perfect send-off—back around the firepit, enjoying freshly made damper (with spinach from the garden) while a country musician had the crowd singing along to Slim Dusty’s “Charleville.”
A few days in this outback town proved to be far more than a stopover—it’s a place rich in history, resilience, and genuine country hospitality. Charleville truly is a town that just keeps giving.
** Tip: For the best viewing experience, click the YouTube link in the bottom left corner of the video to watch in higher clarity.
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