Western Australia’s wheat belt is home to spectacular granite formations, ancient woodlands, salt lakes and a fascinating history shaped by exploration and the gold rush. Our journey took us to two remarkable locations: Karalee Rocks and Baladjie Rock.
After travelling about 20 kilometres from our previous campsite, we settled in at Karalee Rocks, an historic outback camping and heritage site. The quiet reserve has walking trails, firewood collection and a campfire area, although the campground toilet was out of operation during our visit.
One of the main attractions is an impressive 1890s granite water-catchment system. An old well at the site was once an important stopping point for travellers heading towards the goldfields. Historical information notes that people came from across the world—including France, Germany, Italy, England, Greece and Russia—in search of their fortunes in the Kalgoorlie goldfields.
An Ingenious Water System
The enormous granite formation naturally collects rainfall. Water flowing across the smooth rock was directed through stone-lined channels into a large man-made reservoir.
The system was an important source of water for people, horses and camels travelling through the dry country. Charles Hunt is believed to have constructed a well and dam in the area during the 1860s, and the site was later connected with the Goldfields Water Supply Scheme.
Walking across the granite revealed numerous natural pools containing tadpoles and other signs of wildlife. Emus are also attracted to these temporary water sources.
The scale of the granite was impressive, with huge slabs extending for kilometres. The combination of natural geology and carefully constructed channels demonstrates how early travellers and engineers adapted the landscape to survive in an extremely dry environment.
The next morning, we left Karalee Rocks and travelled along the Great Eastern Highway to Southern Cross, where we refuelled, collected supplies and filled the water tanks.
From there, we headed approximately 55 kilometres northwest to Baladjie Rock, a striking granite outcrop within the Baladjie Nature Reserve.
The reserve forms part of the Great Western Woodlands, one of the largest remaining temperate woodland regions on Earth. Located beside the Baladjie salt lake system, the area combines granite formations, woodland and expansive salt lakes.
A free campground at the base of the rock makes it an ideal place to stay while exploring the area.
An early-morning climb provided spectacular views as the sun rose over the campsite and surrounding landscape. The granite looked particularly impressive in the morning light, although the temperature at the top was freezing.
With more of the rock still to explore and rain potentially arriving later in the day, the morning sunrise offered an ideal introduction to another fascinating part of Western Australia’s granite country.
After climbing Baladjie Rock in the dark, the effort proved worthwhile. Reaching the summit before sunrise provided spectacular views over the campsite and surrounding landscape. The climb itself was anything but straightforward, involving steep sections, narrow crevices and plenty of careful scrambling across the granite.
The enormous rock takes on different colours depending on the light. From around the lake, it appeared to have a distinct pink hue, particularly when viewed in the morning light.
The following morning was cooler and cloudier, with no sunrise visible, so attention turned to exploring the lake system instead.
Along the shoreline were thousands of tiny aquatic creatures resembling shrimp, concentrated around the edges of the lake. The lake and surrounding salt flats seemed to stretch endlessly into the distance. From above, the landscape revealed a chain of ponds and water bodies extending across the region, creating an environment reminiscent of the Coorong in South Australia.
With plenty of time available, we returned to Southern Cross for supplies and additional water.
Southern Cross itself offers plenty of history to explore. One of the most significant sites is the original Southern Cross Cemetery, which was gazetted in 1891 and officially used until December 1898.
Although vandalism and neglect have affected the cemetery over the years, many of the remaining headstones are original. Information boards document the people buried there and provide a sobering insight into life in the early goldfields.
Among the recorded causes of death were typhoid, pneumonia and malaria, while infant mortality was also evident. Some children survived for only minutes or a few years. Historical records indicate that 256 deaths were recorded in the Shire of Yilgarn during the period represented by the cemetery.
Several people were believed to have died from thirst, highlighting just how dangerous travel through the region could be.
A lookout over Southern Cross provides another perspective on the area’s mining heritage. Old mine workings and numerous small excavations can still be seen scattered through the surrounding landscape.
Southern Cross was established in 1888, and a centenary memorial commemorates both the town and the Australian Bicentennial period in 1988.
The town may be small, but its history is closely tied to the development of Western Australia’s goldfields. The surrounding mine sites and landscape provide reminders of the prospectors who travelled into this remote country in search of gold.
Between Southern Cross and Balaji Rock lies the small settlement of Bullfinch, another fascinating reminder of Western Australia’s gold-mining past.
Bullfinch developed as a mining community after gold was discovered in the early 1900s. At its peak, it was a much busier settlement, but today only a handful of residents and historic remnants remain.
The surrounding bushland is dotted with old mine workings and shafts, many of which are fenced for safety. The landscape has similarities to historic mining regions elsewhere in Australia, including central Victoria.
Bullfinch represents the classic boom-and-bust story of the goldfields: communities appeared when mining prospects were promising, then declined as deposits became less productive.
The Copperhead gold mine provides an opportunity to see some of Bullfinch’s old workings. The mine experienced periods of growth and decline as prospectors pursued gold deposits that could be rich but unpredictable.
The abandoned workings reveal the scale of mining that once took place here. Among the remnants are old buildings, fences, infrastructure and evidence of the former settlement.
There were also signs of the old Bullfinch swimming pool, along with what appeared to be former toilet facilities and cisterns. Some of the remaining structures and materials have deteriorated significantly, and potentially hazardous materials, including suspected asbestos, were visible around the site.
Despite its decay, the area gives visitors a sense of how substantial the former community was. Houses and other remnants of the township can still be found among the bush, while old recreational features provide glimpses of everyday life in the mining settlement.
The site is the kind of place where it is possible to spend hours exploring and discovering small pieces of its history.
Wedge-tailed eagles soaring above the mine workings added another spectacular element to the landscape, riding the thermals high above the old goldfields.
The journey then continued in search of another historic site, the Gold Valley Mine.
According to the information available, the mine lies northwest of Bullfinch and was associated with one of the earliest gold mining leases in the Eastern Goldfields, dating from 1888.
Unfortunately, reaching the site proved impossible. After following the route towards the mine, the journey ended at a fence marking private property.
Although it was disappointing not to reach the Gold Valley Mine, the detour provided another reminder of the challenges involved in exploring remote historic sites. The private-property restriction only became apparent after travelling some distance from the main highway, turning the search into an unexpected—and ultimately unsuccessful—adventure.
** Tip: For the best viewing experience, click the YouTube link in the bottom left corner of the video to watch in higher clarity
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