Settling into Alice Springs for a few days gave us the perfect opportunity to clean up after our Plenty Highway adventure, restock supplies, and map out the next leg of our journey through the Red Centre.
In between the practicalities, we made time to explore. A visit to Anzac Hill offered both sweeping views over the town and a chance to reflect on the region’s war history, while a wander through the Alice Springs Desert Park and Botanical Gardens immersed us in the native flora unique to this part of Australia. Although our stay was brief, we genuinely enjoyed Alice Springs. Nestled between the East and West MacDonnell Ranges, the setting is undeniably scenic. Despite its reputation for high crime rates and safety concerns, we experienced nothing but friendly, welcoming locals and had no issues exploring during the day. Like anywhere, a bit of common sense goes a long way—this is a town well worth discovering.
We dedicated a day to the often-overlooked East MacDonnell Ranges—and what a hidden gem they are. Starting with the smaller yet striking Emily Gap and Jessie Gap, we were immediately reminded that you don’t need to go far for spectacular scenery. From there, we continued on to Corroboree Rock, a site of great cultural significance to the Eastern Arrernte people. Despite its name, it’s believed this was not a ceremonial gathering place due to the lack of nearby water, but rather an important storage site for sacred objects. The dolomite formation itself, dating back some 800 million years, is a fascinating glimpse into the region’s ancient geological history.
Our final stop in the East Macs was Trephina Gorge, where we took on a loop walk that delivered both challenge and reward. The climb to the lookout tested the legs but delivered stunning views across the gorge, creek, and surrounding ranges. Descending into the gorge, recent rains meant wading through chilly water to complete the walk—an experience that only added to the adventure. We finished the day with a quiet lunch by the creek, soaking it all in. A perfect day out, and one we would highly recommend to anyone visiting the Red Centre.
Next, we hitched up and headed for the West MacDonnell Ranges. With the van in tow, our first stop was Simpsons Gap, one of the range’s permanent waterholes. Thanks to recent rain, the area was vibrant and alive, with water-filled gaps and lush greenery lining the banks—a striking contrast to the typical arid landscape.
From there, we made our way to our camp at Redbank Gorge. With many campgrounds booked out, we took a chance on this quieter option—and it paid off. The access required some careful driving, and even our “large” site was a tight squeeze, but the reward was a peaceful camp nestled among desert oaks. It quickly became one of those places you’re glad you took a chance on.
The following days were spent exploring some of the West Macs’ most iconic sites. The Ochre Pits were our first stop—an incredibly vibrant and culturally significant location where bands of white, yellow, orange, and red clay have been used by the Western Arrernte people for thousands of years. In the early morning light, the colours were simply spectacular.
We then visited Standley Chasm, a privately owned and operated site of deep cultural importance to the local Arrernte community. The walk in follows a creek lined with ancient cycads, setting the tone for what lies ahead. The chasm itself is breathtaking—towering walls carved over millions of years by water and time. Arriving at midday, we were lucky enough to witness the famous 90-minute window where sunlight floods the narrow gap, igniting the rock walls in a fiery glow. It’s a moment that truly lives up to the hype.
Our final stop was Ormiston Gorge—an absolute must-do in the West Macs. We began with the climb to the lookout, and while the 200 steps made for a solid workout, the panoramic view over the gorge made every step worthwhile. Plans to complete the full loop walk were quickly abandoned due to high water levels (and the prospect of a swim in near-freezing conditions after a -3°C start to the day!). Instead, we explored the gorge floor and its expansive waterhole, which was equally rewarding.
In summary, the MacDonnell Ranges—both East and West—are an absolute highlight of the Red Centre and, in our opinion, should not be rushed. While the West Macs are well-known and deservedly popular, the East Macs offer equally stunning landscapes with far fewer crowds and are well worth the time.
Our recommendation? Take a few days, slow down, and explore both sides of the ranges. Pack your walking shoes, expect a little adventure (and maybe cold water crossings), and allow yourself time to truly take it all in. This part of Australia is raw, rugged, and incredibly beautiful—and it’s an experience that will stay with you long after you leave.
** Tip: For the best viewing experience, click the YouTube link in the bottom left corner of the video to watch in higher clarity.
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