Part One - Darling River Run - Pooncarie

After leaving Murbko, our next stop was Berri to have the caravan suspension recall checked out. Thankfully everything was given the all-clear, and we were free to continue onto the next leg of our adventure — tackling the Darling River Run.

This was our second attempt after flooding and road closures back in March forced us to abandon the journey. With limited opportunities to stock up along the way, we loaded the cupboards, topped up supplies, and headed for the Pooncarie Track.

Now fully sealed, the road was a stark contrast to the wild trip we made 34 years ago. Back then, it was a rough single-lane track of sand and corrugations that rattled both vehicle and nerves, costing us a few car parts along the way. These days the drive is far more forgiving, though no less impressive.

Recent rains had transformed the outback into something truly special. Vast stretches of country were lush and green, wildlife was abundant, and the landscape felt alive in a way few people ever get to witness in this harsh region.

Our original plan also included a detour into Mungo National Park, but with the main tourist loop still closed, we reluctantly shelved that idea for another trip. Instead, we rolled into Pooncarie and settled into the town’s RV park on the banks of the Darling River.

The RV park offers a mix of powered sites and bush camping areas, complete with toilets, showers, laundry facilities, power and water — a fantastic setup for such a small outback town. What makes it even better is that the campground is a true community effort, with fees helping fund projects and improvements around town while the local shire manages maintenance and upkeep.

As we arrived in Pooncarie, it was clear some things had changed over the years, but the town still carried the same laid-back character we remembered from three decades ago.

The booking system, however, was an adventure in itself. As we discovered the hard way, you’re expected to book and pay at the pub before heading to the campground. The publican, in true outback fashion, casually took our payment but forgot one tiny detail — asking whether we wanted a powered site.

Back at camp, we proudly reversed into our spot only to discover the power box was locked. After consulting WikiCamps, we learned the keys were supposedly kept at the general store. Into town we went, only to be told the key for our site “must still be at the pub.” Back to the pub we went… no key.

The publican’s solution?
“Just cut the lock.”

In the end, common sense prevailed. We collected a different key, moved sites, and finally settled in — a classic outback process that somehow all worked out eventually. Despite the confusion, we enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere so much we ended up staying three nights.

Pooncarie itself is steeped in Darling River history. Established in the 1840s as an illegal grazing settlement before being formally gazetted as “Pooncaira” in 1863, the town became an important paddle-steamer port servicing the booming wool industry. Known locally as “The Port,” it played a key role in transporting goods and supplies throughout the region and even served as a stop for the Burke and Wills expedition in the 1860s.

Unlike many river ports, Pooncarie’s wharf had a unique advantage — it remained usable even during floods thanks to its natural two-tiered riverbank design formed within the surrounding sand hills. Today, the town remains a small but important service hub for surrounding pastoral stations and travellers heading toward the Willandra Lakes region and Mungo National Park.

During our stay we wandered the banks of the Darling River into town, passing numerous camping areas and river access points along the way. With the river running low and the banks sitting high above the waterline, it was difficult to imagine massive paddle steamers once navigating these waters. Looking at the narrow channel today, you’d question whether even a small tinny could comfortably pass through.

The Darling’s water was a deep green colour during our visit, with warning signs alerting visitors to the presence of blue-green algae — something locals told us continues all the way through to Menindee Lakes. Learning more about the importance of this river system to both communities and agriculture, it’s difficult not to feel concerned seeing such an iconic river under stress. Fish populations have also suffered heavily through years of drought, flooding, and poor river health, and recovery appears slow.

What Pooncarie may lack in size, it more than makes up for with community spirit. Funds from the RV park help support local facilities, including the town’s golf course, which is maintained entirely by volunteers. They’ve somehow managed to keep the tee-off areas and greens beautifully green, despite everything else in between being pure dirt — black soil country that would quickly turn into a muddy bog after rain.

We explored the town by bike, taking in the original post office, the still-operating historic general store, the tiny school with an enrolment of just eight children, and the iconic Telegraph Hotel.

The Telegraph Hotel has been part of Pooncarie’s story since 1875. Originally built as a slab structure with an iron roof, it later expanded into the building that stands today. The current hotel was constructed in 1922 by licensee Edward Edwards, with construction reportedly slowed by a major dust storm. Today, the hotel remains both a local gathering place and an important heritage building recognised under the Local Environmental Plan.

And of course, no visit would be complete without wandering through the local cemetery. Dating back to 1870, it contains the graves of several notable early settlers, including Pooncarie’s first landholder and the town’s first hotel licensee. We still find it strangely amusing seeing cemeteries divided into religious denominations — particularly when one section, the Methodist area, sat completely empty while the Church of England section dominated the grounds.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Pooncarie. Rich in history, community spirit, and significance to the Darling River Run, it was the perfect place to pause, reflect, and deepen our appreciation for this iconic river system before continuing north on our adventure.

** Tip: For the best viewing experience, click the YouTube link in the bottom left corner of the video to watch in higher clarity.