Prior to reaching the peninsula, Mrs Unshackled had pre-booked several camps over the busy Easter period and into the South Australian school holidays starting 11 April. At the time, we had no idea that rising fuel prices—driven by conflict in the Middle East—would shift travel plans for many Australians.
Campsites that appeared fully booked online told a very different story in reality. It felt as though the world had quietly paused, with travellers opting to stay home or cancel their trips altogether. While we relished the unexpected solitude, it was hard not to feel for the small communities along the way, who were genuinely grateful for every bit of support we could offer.
This was Unshackled’s first time exploring the Yorke Peninsula. With mixed reviews from fellow travellers, we were eager to experience it for ourselves and form our own opinion.
Our first night was spent at a randomly selected campsite just outside the township of Ardrossan. Positioned on the eastern side of the peninsula, we overlooked a Viterra grain facility, where ships were being loaded through the night. For us, it was an unexpected treat—watching the movement of goods and gaining a small insight into how our food supply chain operates.
The nearby beach was quite weedy, though we were quickly informed it’s a prime location for razor fishing and crabbing. Unfortunately, without the right gear, neither made it onto our dinner plates that night.
The following morning, we wandered along the foreshore and paused at the Sperm Whale Memorial. This moving tribute commemorates the tragic beaching of seven sperm whales in December 2014. Seven large dolomite boulders sit in the sand, mirroring the position of the stranded whales, each marked with plaques named by local school students. Despite the community’s best efforts, the whales could not be saved—a sobering and emotional story that lingers long after you leave.
From there, we headed south, stopping first at Wool Bay.
This quaint seaside town is home to a fascinating lime kiln, built in the early 20th century. The Wool Bay Lime Kiln is one of the few remaining furnaces on the southern Yorke Peninsula still in relatively good condition. It operated until the 1950s, though its clifftop location caused ongoing draught issues, meaning it never functioned as efficiently as intended.
We explored the site from above before taking the stairs down to the base of the kiln. After a stroll along the jetty and a moment to soak in the beauty of the bay, we continued on to Port Giles.
Port Giles is home to another Viterra grain facility, and being harvest season, it was a hive of activity. Trucks streamed in steadily, their loads tested before unloading—a process we found surprisingly fascinating and a highlight for us both.
From there, we ventured onto dirt roads, passing a sprawling wind farm on our way to a planned beach camp. Unfortunately, the site proved less than ideal—tight, exposed, and plagued by relentless flies. A second option further along wasn’t much better, and ultimately too small for our setup.
With the afternoon slipping away, we made the call to head to Edithburgh Caravan Park. Set right on the waterfront, it offered a comfortable base for the night. We secured a water-view site and settled in, though it’s fair to say the pricing reflected its position as the town’s only caravan park.
The next morning, we explored Edithburgh and discovered its rich maritime history. Surveyed in 1869 and named after Lady Edith Fergusson, the wife of South Australia’s Governor at the time, the town once thrived as a major port. Its jetty played a vital role in exporting barley, wheat, gypsum, and salt from nearby lakes.
Although the local museum was closed due to a lack of volunteers, the town made up for it with an excellent historical display along the main street.
We also visited the tidal pool, originally built in the 1880s to provide safe swimming away from the busy port. Later improvements in the 1930s added concrete terraces, a project driven by local workers and still maintained today. While the pool is partially protected by a shark net, we couldn’t help but question its effectiveness—with noticeable gaps at either end!
Our next destination was Sturt Bay Campground—and what a find it was.
With just five sites available, we were lucky enough to secure what we’d call the pick of them all: direct beach access, privacy, and uninterrupted views. Even over the Easter period, the campground remained surprisingly quiet.
The first few days were nothing short of magic—calm seas, sunshine, long beach walks, and a bit of fishing thrown in for good measure. Eventually, the weather turned, with strong winds and rain rolling through, but it didn’t dampen the experience.
We took the opportunity to explore nearby areas, including the small coastal town of Port Moorowie. Made up largely of holiday homes and fishing shacks, it’s a well-known spot for anglers and those chasing a quieter pace.
Despite it being an unusually quiet Easter, we embraced the stillness. This part of the journey became less about ticking off destinations and more about slowing down, soaking up the solitude, and appreciating the understated beauty of the Yorke Peninsula.
** Tip: For the best viewing experience, click the YouTube link in the bottom left corner of the video to watch in higher clarity.
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